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Technical tips, advice and shared Information.........That's what this page is all about. This is only a very small part of the tips that appear in each issue of the member magazine. There are also more tech tips and member recommended repair shops in the Members Only area and our TECHNICAL STAFF is prepared to answer your technical questions. See contact information in the Members Only area. A complete copy of all the Technical Sections, topics, questions and answers published in the World from 1998 to 2007. Available on CD-Rom only for PC or Mac in pdf format. It sells for $ 10 plus $5 S&H and is indexed by subject for easy reference and contains articles, topics, questions and answers. It is available in the club store.
Questions and Answers part 2 | Headlights | Storm Headlights | Questions and Answers part 1 | More Light for Tracker | Louder Horn Questions and answers and upkeep and performance hints are provided for information and advice purposes. No liability either express or implied is assumed by reliance on the information presented either by the writers or the CC. Some of the questions and answers are from the Internet and interactive bulletin boards. Also be sure to see our club message board for more immediate answers at board.chevyclub.com .
Q: I drive a 1500 and it will start sometimes but other times it wont. It acts like it is going to start but wont take that final step. The check engine light is on. When it does start, it starts hard. Any suggestions on what it might be? Mike W A: It is likely caused by whatever is making your check engine light come on. Take it to Autozone or advance auto parts and have them check your codes (free of charge) and repair the parts that are not functioning. Chevy Club
Q: What causes my 1998 Chevy Malibu to run for about thirty minutes and then shut down. Ted Phillips A: It could be a number of things, check the carb first, get some carb cleaner and spray it in there, it could be it's sticking and causing it to shut down, or you could have a leak in the fuel pump or it could be defective, just because it's new or replaced doesn't mean it functions properly, it could have been installed wrong too or not tight enough, it could be your catalytic converter too, and that's a whole mess that you don't want to deal with. Chevy Club
Q: All settings on the fan work except the highest. Can you tell me where the relay switch is for that high setting on a 1991 Chevy Silverado? Joe Stanton A: It is under the hood on the passenger side underneath the black cover. It looks like a big T. Its underneath. Its one on the relays not sure exactly but it should be labeled on the under side of the cover. Frank
Q: I have a 1991 Chevy S-10. My vent control will not switch off of the floor vent. I get very little air coming from other selected vents. I replaced the vacuum line from the firewall to the booster on the right fender. Do I have a vacuum pod or actuator problem? Mike Bell A: It sounds like your actuator is broke. Rob
Q: I am seeking any advice that might save my toy from going to some kid with big eyes! I think that the transmission is about finished with its life in my truck... was a lot of fun to mud with and just plain play in... but now the great looking thing only shifts from 1st to 2nd, if you shift up at the right moment, with a top speed (rpm wise) of 45 woppin miles an hour. Some please tell me that there is hope for my first love, other than a rebuild/used tranny replacement. Thanks for any input, even if it is not what I want to hear! RSTIMG6 A: Check the shift governor first. If that tranny is a standard 700-R4 (without an electronic prindle switch on the side) look on the driver’s side rear of transmission and see if there is a metal cap about the size of a baseball. If there is, pop it off with a screw driver and hammer, and slide the governor out and see what the plastic teeth look like. If it is electronic, take it to a good transmission shop for a proper diagnosis and rebuild. I highly recommend Aamco Transmissions. You will pay more, but you get the best warranty in the business, with the option to buy additional coverage. Doc
Nic A: You will need to jack the engine up slightly to remove and replace. Just replace them. Doc HEADLIGHTS
When switching on headlights, 'high'
beams the 'low' beams go off and sometimes I switch back and
forth to see the whole road. Now, I have the setup that has
both high and low beams on when in high setting, and low beams
only in low setting. It is great. I can see near and far in high,
and don't bother anyone in low. On my Tracker, which is ground
control, I used the Radio Shack diode, PN276-1185, a diode bridge good
for 25 Amps at 50 volts. On the ground side the bulbs, the
cathode (+) goes to the high beam control and the anode (AC) goes
to the low beam control. (The other three diodes are unused. Usually, the headlights are hot
voltage controlled, just put the diode in the other way. This
part is heat sinked and easily mounted with a #8 screw to a metal
part. In some cases, you may have to increase the fuse a little
also, 15 A to 20A. Another benefit, if a high beam bulb burns out, you will still have a light on that side. Much safer and the cops will go on by. Could take this one step further and turn on the fog lamps also. I suggest turn on the low beams first, then go to high so that you limit the surge current instead of turning all 4 lamps on at once. STORM HEADLIGHTS I just had to replace a burnt out
seal beam on my sister-in-laws 92-Geo Storm GSi. I priced the
seal beam at a local auto supply place. The low beam is $42.00
Canadian. I would assume the price in the USA is as outrageous
there as it is here. So to try and beat the system I thought I
would share my tech tip. The original seal beam is a Sylvania H4351. The lamp and plastic holder is bonded to the glass so you have to replace the whole headlamp. Carefully remove the plastic bulb holder from the glass lens. You can do this with a small grinder (Dremel) or a coarse file. Once you have removed the plastic and the bulb, clean up the old sealant from the opening in the lens. Now go down to your local parts store and purchase a GE 9006 HB4 replacement bulb and a small tube of high heat silicon sealant. Apply plenty of sealant around the base of the new lamp holder and bed the bulb and holder into the lens. Let dry over night and reinstall your new low beam headlight. The total cost was about $12.00 (that's $4 or$ 5 US) Hope this tip can save you some bucks.
MORE LIGHT FOR TRACKER At night were you ever driving in
a very dark place, no street lights, no moon, cloudy, whatever;
and found that you needed more from the headlights? Here is a way to get the low beams
to be on whenever high beams are illuminated. LOUDER HORN Do you 'get no respect' when you
blow your horn? A little 'beep' does little to warn or signal
anyone else. Convert to a 12 wheeler horn - TOOT! Try JC Whitney horn replacement,
12 volt 120dB ($10 ea), 13-3190 and 13-3191 dual tone (one high,
one low). and use the 30 Amp relay from Radio Shack 275-226($6)
to control them. Whitney's relay is 3 terminal, which does not
allow separate coil and contacts on the relay. Connect the wires from the stock
horn to the relay coil. Watch polarization. Provide a new 30 amp circuit for all three horns. On my
Tracker, there was an
empty fuse location on the fuse box under the hood. Wire that to
one of the contacts, and a horn +12 drive wire to each horn. I also like to have the ground wire go to each horn, from a terminal strip (like house wiring).
Dash Mat
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